How to change LEDs on Nokia’s 5510

 

Things you will need:

· Soldering iron with very fine tip (no more than 15W)

· Solder, thin, non-fluxed type preferably or job may be messy

· A drawing pin, map pin

· Torx No.6 Screwdriver

· Tweezers

· 8x 1206 or 0805 sized SMT LEDs 

 

First, have a clean working area. Dropped LEDs are practically impossible to find!

STEP ONE:

Remove rear cover, and then remove the two Torx screws visible. Unclip the three retaining tabs inside, along the edge (sorry too far inside phone to photograph clearly), and remove the front cover.

5510-1.jpg (25818 bytes)

Once removed, you should see this. The Torx screws in red must now be removed to lift away the keypad and LCD screen.

 

STEP TWO:

Lift away the top board and keypad assembly.

5510-2.jpg (30952 bytes)

STEP THREE:

5510-3.jpg (28464 bytes)

Take care to not loose the headset and charger contacts from the frame.

 

STEP FOUR:

5510-4.jpg (23718 bytes)

5510-5.jpg (30130 bytes)

Unclip the keyboard retaining clips...

5510-6.jpg (40712 bytes)

and lift away the screen and keypad.

 

STEP FIVE:

 

5510-7.jpg (39507 bytes)

Undo the two remaining Torx screws

5510-8.jpg (41016 bytes)

and lift away the top board.

 

STEP SIX:

5510-9.jpg (35592 bytes)

The 8x 1206 sized LEDs are marked in red, and must now be removed.

 

 

To remove the LEDs, it’s important to follow the next instructions.

 

5510-10.jpg (39239 bytes)

Because the top left two LEDs are partially obscured by the RF Shielding, it is essential that this must be cut back. First unclip the RF shield as shown above, and then cut away the sections blocking the LEDs using a pair of snips of wire cutters.

5510-11.jpg (41834 bytes)

5510-12.jpg (37718 bytes)

Once the sections are removed, you should see this. Now you can remove all 8 LEDs by following the instructions below.

 

STEP SEVEN:

 

  image029.jpg (12969 bytes)

Place a drawing pin on the desk, point up, and secure it with Blu-Tak, or another brand of adhesive putty… the type used to stick up posters etc. Rest the LED (whilst soldered to the board) upon the point of the drawing pin as shown. Then heat the solder whilst applying GENTLE pressure to the board, downwards. The LEDs should lift off the board gently. If one side lifts first, STOP, and then gently unsolder the other side. Do not apply too much heat, and be careful as the copper tracks on the board may lift up as well. This is difficult to repair.

 

Lay the board, component side up upon a work surface (ensure it lays flat) and insert the new LEDs into the holes, and solder them in place, taking note of cathode markings as shown in step three.   The board must lay flat, and NO flexing should be allowed as you push the LEDs into the holes (With TG Hyper Blue 1206 LEDs, it's a tight fit, and this is especially important).

5510-cath.jpg (8088 bytes)

LED polarity.  This diagram shows the correct alignment of the LEDs cathode markings.

 

STEP EIGHT:

 

After fitting the LEDs, some LEDs are larger than the standard ones, and it is ESSENTIAL that you need back, and remove the tabs that will cover the LEDs on the top left of the board in a manner similar to the images below. If you do not, the tabs can short against the backs of the LEDs, shorting them to ground. This will blow the switching transistor for the keypad display.

5510-15.jpg (32267 bytes) 5510-16.jpg (31203 bytes)

Here is a 5510 board with Toyoda Gosei Hyper Blue LEDs fitted

5510-14.jpg (42509 bytes)

 

STEP NINE:

 

Refitting is a reversal of the above procedures. If all has gone well, you should now have a 5510 that looks like this

5510-fin.jpg (36691 bytes)

Good Luck.

by www.bluled.co.uk

 

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